Monahans Sandhills SP (FWTX 52)

Tips for Birding

Check-in at the main park entrance first to obtain your entrance permit. There is a per-person entrance fee to use the state park. A state park pass might be a wise investment if multiple people are birding or if you think you will be accessing a Texas State Park multiple times over the next 12 months (which is highly likely if you are birding in the valley for several days).

Check here to see if a state park pass is right for you: https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/park-information/passes/park-passes

Birds of Interest

Scaled Quail, Say's Phoebe, Loggerhead Shrike, Cactus Wren, Curve-billed Thrasher and Canyon Towhee can be found in the park year-round.

Northern Harrier and American Kestrel are winter raptors while Swainson's Hawk can be found in the summer months.

Cassin's Sparrow is a hit-or-miss summer visitor while Bullock's Oriole is a more reliable summer resident. Pyrrhuloxia--a.k.a., Desert Cardinal--in a prevalent year-round resident.

About this Location

From the State Park Website:

THE SANDHILLS OF MONAHANS

The sandhills of Monahans are made up of bits of ancient mountains chipped away by erosion and blown here by strong wings 5,000 to 7,000 years ago.

Eventually, plants and animals made a home in these dunes.

Humans discovered the bounty and refuge of these dunes long ago, relying on natural water seeps, plants and wildlife.

Many still seek refuge in Monhans Sandhills to camp, roam and play in the sand and experience nature.

ABOUT THE PARK

Monahans Sandhills State Park consists of 3,840 acres of sand dunes in Ward and Winkler counties, about a half-hour's drive southwest of Odessa. The park opened in 1957.

Ward County owns 300 acres of the park. The state leased the remaining acres (about 3,000 acres from the Sealy-Smith Foundation and about 800 acres from the Williams family of Monahans).

Native Americans were present in this area as far back as 12,000 years. Various tribes, most notably Apache and Comanche, used the area for temporary campgrounds and a meeting place. They found game, abundant fresh water beneath the sands, and acorns and mesquite beans which they ground into paste with stone tools.

More than 400 years ago, Spanish explorers were the first Europeans to report the vast hills of sand.

Native Americans continued to use the area until the 1880s. That’s when the Texas and Pacific Railroad selected Monahans as a water stop between the Pecos River and the town of Big Spring.

In the late 1920s, oil production began in what is now known as the Permian Basin. Today, Monahans is a shopping hub for more than 800 square miles of oil and cattle country.

SHIFTING SANDS, MOVING MOUNTAINS

The shifting sands of Monahans tell the story of moving mountains, bit by bit. The dune field that Monahans Sandhills is in stretches 150 miles north to New Mexico and is 22 miles wide. The state park boundaries protect 3,840 acres of sand dunes for plants, wildlife habitat and people to enjoy.

Thousands of years ago during an arid post-glacial period, tiny bits of eroded Southern Rocky Mountains that were deposited in streams dried up. Big winds blew the sand southeast where they were trapped against the Texas High Plains, known as the Llano Estacado. The sands built up large active dunes that the wind still shifts and moves around to this day.

Other dunes are stabilized by unique plant species adapted to life in the sandhills. Beneath the dunes hides caliche, a mostly impermeable layer that traps water, forming a perched water table where seeps of water are available for plants, animals and, in the past, humans.

IT’S NOT JUST SAND!

Many plants manage to eke out survival in this harsh dune environment.

Grasses such as the sand bluestem and sand reeds help stabilize the soil. In the spring and summer, the park is a kaleidoscope of blooming flowers such as yellow sandhill sunflowers, pink penstemons, bright white heliotropes, sweet-smelling yucca flowers and so much more. 

A few types of trees can be found in the stable dunes including desert willow and honey mesquite which rely on deep taproots for water. The front of the park is covered with the amazing Havard shin oak that survives on a large network of interweaving root systems. While the shin oaks may be short, averaging 2-3 feet tall, they are mighty, covering an area comprising the largest oak forest in North America! The oaks also provide important acorns and habitat for wildlife.

Unique wildlife has adapted to life in the dunes too. Some examples are Jerusalem crickets, javelina, mule deer, the sand dune sagebrush lizard, ground squirrels, mule deer, kangaroo rats and many species of birds.

PEOPLE IN THE DUNES

Archeologists found evidence that people have been using the dunes for thousands of years.

The sand dunes may not look very hospitable to some, but the natural water seeps and interdunal ponds gave Native Americans a good place to camp.

Wildlife was also drawn to the water so people could hunt for mule deer, desert cottontail rabbits and other wildlife for food. Other things people found to eat in the dunes are acorns of the Havard shin oak from which they could make a type of flour, earth oven-baked yucca roots and honey-mesquite beanpods. Desert willow bark was also used as medicine. 

Low-lying areas in the dunes also made for a great place to escape from enemies. The railroad, that is still just outside the park, was established in 1880 and brought more people to live and work in the region.

An old pump jack in the park shows that oil and gas production in the Permian Basin is still a major industry in the area.

Now that the park is protected public land, visitors can enjoy camping, exploring nature and play in the sand for generations to come.

 

About Permian Basin West Loop - Great Texas Birding Trail - Far West Texas

See all hotspots at Permian Basin West Loop - Great Texas Birding Trail - Far West Texas

The Permian Basin West Loop is a part of the Texas Parks and Wildlife's, Great Texas Wildlife Trails, Far West Texas Wildlife Trail.

Notable Trails

From the AllTrails.com website: 

Monahans Sandhills State Park charges a fee to enter. For more information on rates, please visit the park website at https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/monahans-sandhills/fees-facilities/entrance-fees. Texas State Parks passes are also accepted.

Sand Dunes Loop

This is a ranger-recommended trail that travels through the dunes. In the beginning, start at the parking lot by the old windmill pump, head up the tallest dune, and follow the dune crests to the working pumpjack. Work your way back to the old windmill to complete the loop. This unofficial trail fully utilizes the part of the park without bushwhacking. Sand Dunes Loop

Nature Trail Loop

This short family-friendly trail is located in the beautiful Monahans Sandhills State Park. The surface is sand and crushed stone which is relatively flat. There are options to connect with other areas in the park. The dunes are a beautiful landscape to observe and there are a variety of animals and plants that make this a diverse space. Nature Trail Loop

Features

  • Restrooms on site

  • Entrance fee

  • Roadside viewing

Content from Official Website and Janey Woodley

Last updated November 14, 2023